After looking at hundreds of collections, things get a little hazy. But there were a couple of things that stood out, and these I classify as my favourites (and probably as reference for my personal look book!) of all the runway gorgeousness that is Spring 2009.
First of all, my favourite ready-to-wear collection would have to be… Louis Vuitton.
There seemed to be a lot of mixed reactions to this collection but I personally loved it. I am not the biggest fan of huge slaps of ethnic influences and prints, but this collection changed my mind. There was a great use of colour and I love the details, especially the bags and the shoes… Omg the shoes! The obi belt reinterpretations also worked really well with the outfits.
YSL was another one I liked – sleek, stylish, shiny and lots of black. There were so many pieces I would love to wear.
Chanel had some lovely pieces (even though everyone’s tired of the tweed jackets, but I still appreciate the reinterpretation of something so classic, so Chanel), and the men’s pieces were very chic too. Karl’s own Karl Lagerfeld line was simple but beautiful, and I really liked the play of organdie as well as the leather belt-and-corset clinchers that held everthing together. Rodarte also presented an amazing collection with the most inventive use of leather and zippers to produce some really refreshing pieces.
Finally, we all know about florals and Spring, but the use of fabrics by Christian Lacroix was breathtaking.
The make-up and hair of the models stole the show at John Galliano, and I’m still not sure what to think about Rick Owens’ use of the nun-like headscarves. Haider Ackermann’s runway show also had some very ingenious use of zippers on leather and satin, as well as asymmetrical draping which I adore.
Rue Du Mail’s collection of architectural silhouettes is impressive and worth looking at; it was kind of amusing to see miniature louvres on dresses, actually. LIMI feu’s collection was so… Japanese, hahaha. It was a cool, street-style lineup.
Over at London, I’m not surprised that Christopher Kane got the greatest attention with his flapping, scaling, scalloping pieces. My favourite would have to be Roksanda Ilincic’s runway collection though – she delivered some intricate constructions with illusive fabrics.
Now… onto my least favourites.
Issey Miyake had a color palette that was supposed to reflect the mighty amazon jungle but just made my stomach a little queasy. Vivienne Westwood’s Gold Label runway was a bit too much for me – perhaps it wasn’t meant to be an entirely cohesive collection, or maybe it was just the black lipstick…
And yes, I am aware that NY Fashion Week has finished and some of the Fall collections are looking delicious but I will get to them real soon, after I finish digesting the remaining few Spring Couture shows.